Fragrance-free hair care – what do the experts say?

Fragrance is found in most hair care products and in much of what we use every day — cleansers, detergents, skin care, scented candles.

What does it actually mean for us and our skin? When does it matter to choose fragrance-free?

Many people love fragrance and experience no issues. For others — with sensitive skin, eczema or an itchy scalp — fragrance-free is not a choice but a necessity and children, who have thinner skin, should avoid fragrance.

We spoke with two experts in the field: Ulrika Nilsson, Professor of Analytical Chemistry at Stockholm University, who has researched skin-sensitising fragrance substances, and Sigrid Malmkvist Padoan, a dermatologist with long experience working with contact allergies and running her own skin clinic for over 20 years. Together, we dove into the subject and detangled the terminology.

What is fragrance in hair products?

Rarely it is a single ingredient. Fragrance in cosmetics is almost always a blend of many different scent compounds — both natural and synthetic. Common examples include limonene (from citrus) and linalool (from lavender).

"Even though these are natural ingredients, they easily form strongly allergenic compounds when exposed to oxygen," says Ulrika.

Natural does not automatically mean gentle — something worth keeping in mind next time you read an ingredient list.

There are around 2,500 fragrance substances used in cosmetics. Twenty-six of these are subject to mandatory labelling requirements in the EU when present above a certain concentration, as they are known allergens. The remaining fragrance substances are simply listed as "parfum" on ingredient lists.

In July 2026, an update to EU regulation 2023/1545 is expected to come into force, requiring 56 additional fragrance allergens to be declared. We have verified that none of Rufs' five products contain any of these 82 substances.

Fragrance-free vs unscented — what is the difference?

These terms are easy to mix up. Ulrika explains what fragrance-free means — and Sigrid clarifies the difference from unscented:

"Fragrance-free means that no fragrance substances — natural or synthetic — have been added to the product. A fragrance-free product may still have a faint scent from its other ingredients, but no fragrance compounds have been intentionally included."

Fragrance-free and unscented are not the same thing. Fragrance-free means no fragrance substances or masking agents have been added. Unscented means the product is perceived as having no scent — but it may contain chemicals that mask the smell of other ingredients. For those with sensitive skin or fragrance sensitivity, fragrance-free is the safer choice.

A fragrance-free product may still have a subtle natural scent from its ingredients. The shea butter in Rufs products is an example of this.

Why is fragrance added at all?

A reasonable question. The answer is simpler than you might think.

"Fragrance is added purely for the experience — the way a product smells when you use it."

Fragrance has no caring or biological function for the hair or scalp. It is there for the sensory experience — and that is not unimportant, scent carries psychological, social and historical significance, but for the hair itself, it is not needed.

When can fragrance be a problem?

"Fragrance substances are one of the most common causes of skin allergy (contact allergy)," says Ulrika.

Contact allergy to fragrance substances affects around 5% of the adult population in Europe, and approximately 2% of adolescents in Sweden. Among people with eczema, the proportion is significantly higher.

Fragrance can also affect the airways — not just the skin. In some people, even a mild scent can trigger reactions.

Sigrid elaborates:

"Eczema-prone skin, as well as the airways, can react to fragrances and worsen — with increased itching, redness, dryness and eczema flare-ups, even without a true allergy. Many fragrance substances are irritating to sensitive skin. Allergy tests, known as patch tests, do not always show a reaction even when a patient's eczema worsens due to fragrance."

What is fragrance sensitivity?

Fragrance sensitivity, or sensory hyperreactivity (SHR), means the nervous system reacts more strongly to chemical substances than is typical. You react to scents that most people do not even notice — perfume, cleaning products, hair care.

For many people, it affects daily life. In classrooms, changing rooms, office and on the bus.

Are children more vulnerable?

"Those with thinner skin — such as young children — as well as those with damaged skin or atopic eczema are particularly vulnerable."

"The earlier in life and the more frequently someone is exposed to allergens, the greater the risk of developing an allergy at some point.", explains Ulrika.

Does this matter in hair care?

Yes — and the reason is simple. Hair care products are used close to the scalp, and the scalp is skin. Products we use regularly affect us more than we might think.

Two trends shaping the market

Demand for fragrance-free products is growing, driven by increased awareness of allergies, fragrance sensitivity, a desire for gentler alternatives and a broader focus on health and wellbeing.

At the same time, interest in fragrance as a form of personal expression is growing — scent is becoming an active style choice, particularly among younger generations.

The two needs can coexist: fragrance-free as a safe everyday routine, and scent as a conscious choice when you want it.

How do you use fragrance safely?

Sigrid's advice is simple: apply your favourite scent to your hair lengths or clothes instead. That way, you choose what you smell like — and avoid the unintentional cocktail of scents from shampoo, conditioner, creams, makeup and deodorant that neither you nor your skin asked for.

How we think at Rufs

We have chosen to work fragrance-free — and we stand by that choice. Not because it is always the "better" option, but because we want our products to work for as many people as possible, regardless of age or skin sensitivity.

Our products are developed for children, who benefit from avoiding fragrance, but Rufs suits all ages and we see more and more adults using our products.

For us, it comes down to one thing: continuing to create genuinely good hair care products that make everyday life a little simpler.

Sources

• Interview with Ulrika Nilsson, Professor of Analytical Chemistry, Stockholm University — su.se/english/profiles/u/unils
• Interview with Sigrid Malmkvist Padoan, dermatologist
• Fragrance contact allergy — prevalence in Europe — pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26332456
• Sensory hyperreactivity (SHR) — pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3842640/
• Fragrance-free vs unscented — American Academy of Dermatology — aad.org/public/diseases/eczema/childhood/triggers/friendly-products
• EU regulation 2023/1545 — eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32023R1545
• European Commission — Perfume Allergies — ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/opinions_layman/perfume-allergies/en/index.htm
• Circana — US Beauty Industry 2024 — circana.com/post/us-beauty-industry-sales-grow-for-the-fourth-consecutive-year-circana-reports
• Euromonitor — Fragrance growth — euromonitor.com/newsroom/press-releases/july-2025/fragrance-to-drive-23-of-beauty-growth-as-recession-glam-takes-hold
• Scandinavian Mind- Fragrance Free skin and hair care- https://scandinavianmind.com/the-new-great-rise-for-fragrance-free-skincare-and-haircare-explained/