Frizzy hair: what it is, why it happens and how to care for frizzy hai

Frizzy hair. Most of us have heard the word, recognised the feeling and perhaps struggled with it. But what does it actually mean, and why do we talk about frizz as something to be fought?

The word “frizz” comes from the French friser, meaning to curl the hair. In the 1600s, it was a neutral description of curly hair. Not a problem. Just hair.

Somewhere along the way, that changed.

At Rufs, we don’t believe in fighting hair, we believe in understanding it.

Frizz and beauty standards

Frizz is often described using words like “anti-frizz”, “control” or “tame”. But what do those words really imply?

Sweden is often associated with straight, blonde hair, but the reality looks different. Today, there is a wide variation of hair types and textures across Swedish homes, schools and communities.

The hair care market has been slower to reflect that. On Prisjakt, over 1,400 products are listed under “normal hair”, while curly hair is often treated as a separate category. It says something about what has historically been defined as the norm.

Emma Dabiri describes in Don’t Touch My Hair how terms like “taming” and “controlling” carry a history of defining natural hair as something that needs to be fixed. A similar perspective is reflected in Anne-Sophie Benoit’s work featured in Vogue of Scandinavia, where afro-textured hair is often labelled as “untamed” or “unprofessional”.

Research also shows that beauty standards influence which products are developed and marketed, and that these often don’t reflect the natural qualities of textured hair (MDPI Cosmetics, 2024).

At Rufs, we see it differently. All hair is normal.

What is frizzy hair and why does it happen?

Each strand of hair is covered by a cuticle layer. When the hair is healthy, this layer lies flat and reflects light evenly.

Frizzy hair occurs when the cuticle lifts, often due to moisture imbalance or damage. The hair absorbs moisture, swells and loses its definition.

Dry hair draws in moisture from the air, high humidity causes the hair to absorb water quickly, and damage from heat or treatments makes the hair more reactive.

Frizz is not a flaw. It is hair responding to its environment.

How frizz looks on different hair types

Frizz appears differently depending on hair type.

On straight hair, it often shows as flyaway strands.

On wavy hair, the shape becomes less defined.

On curly hair, curls separate and expand.

Afro-textured hair has a natural spiral and zigzag structure and is designed to grow upward and outward. It is sometimes described as frizzy, although this often reflects how the term is used rather than how the hair naturally behaves. In this context, frizz refers more to a loss of definition due to moisture imbalance or damage, rather than the hair’s natural structure (PMC, 2024).

How to care for frizzy hair

Caring for frizz is about working with your hair, not against it.

1. Detangle before washing
Tangles are easier to manage in damp hair. Use a detangler and work from the ends upward.

2. Wash gently
Use a mild shampoo that cleanses without drying out the hair, followed by a conditioner to maintain moisture.

3. Moisturise and protect
A leave-in conditioner helps keep moisture levels balanced. For curly hair, a curl cream can add structure without stiffness.